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Thread: 1995 M3 coupe .. track day car

  1. #76
    quickly (and finally) vacuumed out the interior this morning.. it looks soooo much better inside the car. I washed the car this morning and cleaned/dressed the tires. The car's looking pretty good right now.

    I took the car to the Puget Sound BMW CCA's annual M Car Day today. I think I had the only car there that had been stripped down at all, though a couple of the cars had fixed back seats. There were a ton of E36 M3's there, and every single one of them still had the stock interior. It was really interesting to check them out though now that I know more about these cars.



    the rear seat bits sitting in my kitchen



    couple more outside pics.. this is the cleanest the car has been since I bought it.







    I also ended up deciding to buy some stainless brake lines. One of the sponsors at the event today had 10 - 20% off a bunch of UUC parts, so a full set of stainless lines was going for less than $100. I'd be paying over $140 for StopTech lines if I bought those, so I decided to pull the trigger. I'm really looking forward to feeling these brakes with new lines and with new racing fluid in the system.
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  2. #77
    I got the left side Schroth Rallye Cross harness in today. I'm looking forward to getting it installed, but I need to get access to a vise first so I can bend the attachment points.



    I also need something I can use to grind down some small metal tabs on the front factory harness bars. The E36 coupe has a bar just below the rear end of the doors that the bottom of the front 3 point belts attach to. The Schroth harness attachments will slide onto it, but only after I grind down a couple small tabs that are used to keep the bar from sliding all the way into the body work when not bolted in. So, that will require a little work.

    I also figured out how to remove the rear outboard seat belt receptacles. They simply unbolt from the car, but the bolt is a little tough to get to (you have to either remove the rear side panels, or push them out of the way and force a socket in (which is what I chose to do).

    So, I'll get the harness installed once I get access to a vise.. and a metal grinder.
    Last edited by joel; 2012.08.20 at 17:37 PM.
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  3. #78
    Lorit.
    I make pretty stuff
    www.twelvizm.com


  4. #79
    Quote: Originally Posted by Twelvizm View Post
    Lorit.
    meh..
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  5. #80
    just joined Puget Sound BMW CCA
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  6. #81
    looking into what it will take to fix the oil leaks around the crankcase and vanos oil lines.. looks pretty simple. It's just a couple of hoses and gaskets/o-rings, for the most part. I bet replacing a few o-rings will fix this.
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  7. #82
    so I was skimming bimmerforums, and came across an old recently bumped thread about making your own "glovebox power adapter". http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1391902

    I was reading the guy's post.. trying to figure out where this was supposed to plug in. Then I saw a reference to "the flash light". I was like.. what flash light!? Then I realized...

    the glove box. I thought the light on the side was a glove box light, and didn't think much about it.


    the actual glove box light.. not working right now


    so I pulled the light on the side out.. revealing a power socket


    and the "flash light"





    so I'm still learning things about this car

    This will be kind of nice.. because the location of the factory 12v socket is on the left side of the console in front of the shifter. Power cords just get in the way with this location.

    (updated interior shot)




    I also took a photo showing the ancient'ness of the tires (manufactured in 2006):



    and I realized last night that the two fog lights in the car are not the same. One is ZKW, and one is Hella. The insignias are hard to see in the photos, but you can easily see that the internal construction is different. The light patterns are noticeably quite different.. and I kind of like the pattern of the ZKW better (thankfully it's on the driver's side). I won't bother making these match any time soon.. they both look good and are both OEM brands, so whatever.

    yes, I killed a bug


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  8. #83
    discovered that my car has heated lock cylinders, mirrors, windshield washer nozzles, etc. Pulling the door handle turns on the interior lights for a moment as well. Apparently this was standard on US M3's.. it's not listed as an option for the car. I can feel the lock cylinder heating up when I use it, but I think the heated mirror circuits are long gone. They are apparently always heated with the ignition is on.. regardless of temperature or anything else. Oh well.. I'll be buying European/UK driver's mirrors soon.

    The M3 also has auto up & auto down side windows. I remember people being amazed that the mk5 VW's had this feature.. and a lot of cars still don't have auto up even now. Yet, the M3 had it in 1995. Not bad
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  9. #84
    everyone probably knows me by now buddylove is a jewel in the rough buddylove is a jewel in the rough
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    Mk3's had it as well.

  10. #85
    auto up windows? I thought mk4's didn't have auto up..
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  11. #86
    everyone probably knows me by now buddylove is a jewel in the rough buddylove is a jewel in the rough
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    yup, I used it on my '99 GTI all the time. Lisa's '95 and '97 Jetta GLX had it as well.

  12. #87
    didn't know
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  13. #88
    Normal Member VWsEatRice is on a distinguished road VWsEatRice's Avatar
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    my mk3 jetta had auto down windows but not up.

  14. #89
    everyone probably knows me by now Jazzydub has a spectacular aura about Jazzydub has a spectacular aura about Jazzydub's Avatar
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    My MK4 has auto up and down for both sides but only from the drivers door. The passenger has to hold the button.

  15. #90
    Quote: Originally Posted by Jazzydub View Post
    My MK4 has auto up and down for both sides but only from the drivers door. The passenger has to hold the button.
    That might be what I'm thinking of.. I've only driven a mk4 once, bit ridden in them many times
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  16. #91
    got the harness installed today. I had to grind down a couple small metal tabs on the slider below the door so the belt attachment could slide on, and then bend each attachment point so that it was angled correctly for the belts. I'm now more uncomfortable in the car.. which means it's more hard core, or something

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  17. #92
    make car go faster guy Rabbit 16v is a jewel in the rough Rabbit 16v is a jewel in the rough Rabbit 16v is a jewel in the rough Rabbit 16v's Avatar
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    Quote: Originally Posted by joel View Post
    discovered that my car has heated lock cylinders, mirrors, windshield washer nozzles, etc. Pulling the door handle turns on the interior lights for a moment as well. Apparently this was standard on US M3's.. it's not listed as an option for the car. I can feel the lock cylinder heating up when I use it, but I think the heated mirror circuits are long gone. They are apparently always heated with the ignition is on.. regardless of temperature or anything else. Oh well.. I'll be buying European/UK driver's mirrors soon.

    The M3 also has auto up & auto down side windows. I remember people being amazed that the mk5 VW's had this feature.. and a lot of cars still don't have auto up even now. Yet, the M3 had it in 1995. Not bad
    one thing to note. those mirrors will not be heated always. they are likely energized when the rear defogger is turned on. something that Murricans forget to turn off. then it comes to them being on all the time... MKIVs are the worst. There is a center position to leave the switch in, this is the defrost position. this also happens to be the reason why most of the heating elements are bad.. job security?

  18. #93
    Quote: Originally Posted by Rabbit 16v View Post
    one thing to note. those mirrors will not be heated always. they are likely energized when the rear defogger is turned on. something that Murricans forget to turn off. then it comes to them being on all the time... MKIVs are the worst. There is a center position to leave the switch in, this is the defrost position. this also happens to be the reason why most of the heating elements are bad.. job security?
    I was just repeating what I read in the forums. Relying on the defrost switch makes sense to me... and it's what I expected.
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  19. #94
    the real fun begins..

    I bought some parts today:

    UUC red isolated transmission mounts with UUC mount reinforcers


    UUC braided brake lines


    Euro driver's mirror glass, and UK driver's mirror glass


    Motion Motorsports under panel (replaces several smaller plastic pieces that fall off easily, and like to fly off at speed. My M3 is missing them anyway.)


    Motion Motorsports radiator baffle kit (directs air to the radiator. My M3 has had the radiator fan removed.)




    I already have the lines and trans mounts.. the local BMW/Mini shop Broad Stroke Associates carries UUC stuff. They'll be installing these for me next Saturday morning, along with replacing the current ATE Super Blue brake fluid with Motul RBF600 fluid. The Motion Motorsports stuff should be here next week, and the mirror glass won't be here until later in September.

    I'm also expecting to replace the windshield some time this month. I also still need to try and fix the oil leaks at the top of the engine. I'm hoping it's just a couple o-rings. I need to clean a bunch of the engine bay as well, so I can catch any further leaking.


    Next month I'll be buying tires both for the wagon and M3, so I'll just do that at the same time. I'll also change the oil in the M3 next month (need something like a 20w-50 rather than the standard 5w-30).

    Once that's all done, the M3 should be good for some test 'n tune events the last couple of weekends in October, at Pacific Raceways. I'm still concerned about the oil pressure, but overfilling by half a quart and keeping off the red line will keep any problems from occurring, unless I already have things breaking right now (unlikely considering this car has had no problems for 193k miles). The parts I want to replace and install inside the oil pan will cost almost $500, and the work to just get into the oil pan is pretty intensive, so that will be happening after I get back from Texas (F1 in Austin). I just need to feel the car out right now so I know where it needs to go handling-wise, so I want to get it on track as soon as possible. The rest of the winter and early spring will be spent working on the car (and hopefully doing a few things on the wagon as well).
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  20. #95
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    twardnw is just really nice twardnw is just really nice twardnw is just really nice twardnw is just really nice twardnw's Avatar
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    looks like fun
    -Tyler-

  21. #96
    Regular Member benny_mech will become famous soon enough
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    Quote: Originally Posted by joel View Post
    My M3 has had the radiator fan removed.
    Yikes! Don't get stuck in traffic!!

  22. #97
    Quote: Originally Posted by benny_mech View Post
    Yikes! Don't get stuck in traffic!!
    yeah..

    it does have the 'overtemp' fan on the front side still. The problem with the rear radiator fan is that the fan clutch explodes and shoots little bits of plastic and metal everywhere. These engines stay cool pretty easily, so it shouldn't be an issue unless I'm doing a lot of stop & go on a hot day. Removing the radiator fan is pretty common track cars for this reason.. saves a little weight too.
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  23. #98
    gave the car it's weekly drive.. got it nice and warmed up and then got up to 125 for a small stretch. It's pretty eager to get to that speed.. in a space where my wagon would be lucky to pass 90 (going uphill). The car definitely needs better matched springs for the shocks though. It doesn't soak up bumps very well, and just ends up kind of riding over them. It'll be really interesting to see how it feels on the track.. where pavement is a bit smoother (even at Pacific Raceways )

    this car is going to be fun
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  24. #99
    need to replace the VANOS oil pipe and crush washers.. $50 part (#10 here)


    and need to replace the o-ring and maybe a couple of hoses for the crankcase breather (#2, and maybe #3 and/or #5)



    so basically.. I need to clean all around these oil leaks first, so I can figure out exactly where the oil is coming from. These areas have had oil leaking for long enough now that there's just built up oil and dirt everywhere
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  25. #100
    well.. this was interesting. I started cleaning as much oil and dirt as I could off of things around the vanois oil line, crankcase breather, valve cover, etc. I pulled the valve cover's plastic cover off and noticed that one of the bolts was quite loose. So I finished cleaning things up, removed the line out of the crankcase to clean that connector out more, etc., then tightened up the valve cover bolt (and made sure the rest of the bolts were also tight (they were)). That valve cover bolt was so loose it was about to fall off... pretty crazy. And.. surprise! .. there's a lot of oil mess built up around that bolt, including what looks like possibly more fresh oil.

    So, I put things back together, satisfied that I had at least cleaned enough up to notice if there was any new oil leaking out around the areas I was focusing on, and then went out for a ~25 minute drive to get oil pressure up and then run the engine out a bit. I got back home and popped the hood with the engine running.. and didn't see any apparent new oil leaking right now.

    I've smelled a little oil after driving at higher RPM's in the past (though not every time), and I didn't smell oil this time (same when I popped the hood at the end).

    So, I think I'll drive the car around a bit more this month and see if I notice any new oil in these areas. The whole area under the intake manifold and below the engine still needs a serious cleaning.. the oil pan and front sway bar are soaked in oil as well. That's the next free project, I suppose.


    the area I'm focusing on.. after cleaning up some oil


    crankcase breather.. with the VANOS solenoid below it, and the oil pipe below & to the right of that


    focused on the oil pipe line here.. it has oil on it the whole way down. At the top, in the foreground, are the two hoses that connect to the crankcase breather. Both have oil soaked on them for the whole length, but when I cleaned them off they both look pretty new. I did pull the crankcase breather hose connector as well.. and it looks brand new, with no oil around the o-ring, so that looks ok.



    and the offending valve cover bolt.. with quite a bit of oil around it (while the others were pretty dry)
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