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Thread: MK3 VR6 possible fuel pump issue

  1. #51
    Regular Member Helios is on a distinguished road Helios's Avatar
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    I'll try to get a pic of the setup I'm borrowing now. You will likely have to make an adapter to fit the engine stand.
    -Chris S.

    "If they ain't a little too wide, they ain't wide enough!"
    '76 Mk1 / '87 XR4Ti / '93.5 SLC / '94 SVT / '95 RS / '96 GTi

  2. #52
    Normal Member Kinnikinnick is on a distinguished road
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    Please post those pics when you have them.

    My help is 2 weeks or so out from being able to pull the trans and do the chains so in the mean time I thought checking the oil pressure may be able to tell me something. If I have low oil pressure the upper tensioner bolt would fail right? This could create slack in the chain resulting in the noise in my videos previously posted? At cold start no noise... when the oil thins out and warms up you hear it.

    If the pressure checks out then I guess try to pull pan and look for chunks of broken stuff.

  3. #53
    Regular Member Helios is on a distinguished road Helios's Avatar
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    Oh crap, sorry. Spaced it. Essentially it's a plate welded to some round pipe to fit the engine stand. The plate bolts to the block at the rear (in car) motor mount locations.
    -Chris S.

    "If they ain't a little too wide, they ain't wide enough!"
    '76 Mk1 / '87 XR4Ti / '93.5 SLC / '94 SVT / '95 RS / '96 GTi

  4. #54
    Regular Member Helios is on a distinguished road Helios's Avatar
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    -Chris S.

    "If they ain't a little too wide, they ain't wide enough!"
    '76 Mk1 / '87 XR4Ti / '93.5 SLC / '94 SVT / '95 RS / '96 GTi

  5. #55
    Normal Member Kinnikinnick is on a distinguished road
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    Finally got around to the timing chains. Replaced it all, found a few things that could have been the problem.

    1. Decent amount of play on the lower tensioner. When chain was tight i could move the guide the tensioner was pushing on.
    2. The bolt holding the lower sprocket was only hand tight! I think bentley says 74ft lbs.
    3. Found a spot where i assume the chain was slapping the block. I think this explains the copper flakes in engine. Photo below:

    4. Zero sealant was found on any of the timing case.



    Havent driven it yet but fired it up and let it idle for 10 mins, almost no chain noise at all and to my releif no more clicking sound!
    Last edited by Kinnikinnick; 2016.02.18 at 18:46 PM.

  6. #56
    Regular Member Helios is on a distinguished road Helios's Avatar
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    Awesome!
    -Chris S.

    "If they ain't a little too wide, they ain't wide enough!"
    '76 Mk1 / '87 XR4Ti / '93.5 SLC / '94 SVT / '95 RS / '96 GTi

  7. #57
    Normal Member Kinnikinnick is on a distinguished road
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    Thought it would be nice to post the before and after in case anyone ever runs into a similar sound. I had a ton of fun learning but hope to never have to do this again! The transmission is an ahole.

    The chain noise is typical but the click sound was something unique I hadn't heard in any youtubes videos. The chains had just been done on my car maybe 5-10k miles ago, pulling all parts all guides and rails appeared unmarked and in good condition but we still replaced everything.

    I believe the clicking sound is a result of the lower sprocket bolt being loose thus allowing the lower chain to slap the bottom of timing case area as seen in picture in previous post above.

    BEFORE:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NsGZYWlYzk


    AFTER:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RA-ys8A7dJ0


    Last edited by Kinnikinnick; 2016.02.21 at 11:56 AM.

  8. #58
    Normal Member Kinnikinnick is on a distinguished road
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    Hey all, its been a few months cars been running great. Replaced the crack pipe, deleted SAI and plugged it. Noticed recently though an oil leak coming from an unknown source that drips just below the flywheel from the case that covers it.

    When i removed said case and start the car the leak doesnt seem to show, after turning the engine off or after getting the oil really hot it shows a good leak. My thoughts are either the rear mainseal or oil pan. I replced the oil pan gasket as the PO was missing 4 bolts, stripped 2 more and put way too thick sealant on it. After properly replacing the pan it still leaks so that wasnt the problem. My guy that helps me says maybe the PCV valve is acting up which could cause this leak, does that sound possible to you guys?

    See pic to follow. Does anyone have ideas before i remove the tranny? Also, if i do have to remove the tranny to get to the seal will i have room by only removing the tranny? Id like to avoid pull the lower timing case off.


    Last edited by Kinnikinnick; 2016.06.09 at 17:14 PM.

  9. #59
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    twardnw is just really nice twardnw is just really nice twardnw is just really nice twardnw is just really nice twardnw's Avatar
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    that the backside of the flywheel? Sounds like a rear main seal to me...
    -Tyler-

  10. #60
    Normal Member Kinnikinnick is on a distinguished road
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    Quote: Originally Posted by twardnw View Post
    that the backside of the flywheel? Sounds like a rear main seal to me...
    Yes that picture is from me laying underneath the car taking a pic of the flywheel from the engine side after removing the flywheel cover piece

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